Cherished by fin de siècle international high society, the westernmost section of the Riviera Ligure is a land of charm and wonder, a kaleidoscope of emotions and landscapes between the blue of the sea and the silver green of the entroterra.
From Cervo to La Mortola vast bays and elegant resorts form a lively pattern dotted by cluster pines and Art Nouveau villas, whereas the olive tree is the undisputed emperor reigning over hills, valleys and villages of the hinterland.
The best entry to the area’s chief town is from the east, past the enchantment of Capo Berta, its scent Mediterranean and marine. The double identity of Imperia, in fact, is on full display before your eyes in the most panoramic of scenarios: Oneglia lying in the river plan, Porto Maurizio gathered around the Parasio hill. “A tale of two cities” is our modest proposal as for the title of your travel book: unified by an administrative act in 1923, yet still separated by history and tradition, the two centres narrate the past and the present of this border land connecting Italy and France.
Start your visit from the Parasio, the old district of Porto Maurizio, which proudly towers over the sea. Palaces, churches and oratories exalt the memory of a wealthy Medieval port, whose trades and exchanges - thanks to a strategic alliance with powerful Genoa - flourished through the centuries. Enjoy the tranquillity of the convent dedicated to Santa Chiara, its metaphysical portico is a balcony facing the silver of the waves. Discover the grace of the Gothic arches of Palazzo Pagliari, a token of 15th century splendour. Carruggi and stairways traverse the hill and guide your steps to the sumptuousness of the Duomo, to the elegant shops of Via Cascione, and to the serenity of religious architectures.
The sea is everywhere in the Parasio, even when it is hidden from view. The Museo Internazionale Navale del Ponente celebrates the history of navigation, a tale of adventure and sacrifice narrated by instruments and documents of the past. As for the present, a stroll along a maze of narrow alleys will lead you to the sunny promenades and golden beaches of Borgo Marina, once the haven of the Knights of Malta. Borgo Marina presents the rare attraction of its Molo Lungo, facing the open sea like a ship’s prow. Every two years, the bay hosts the Vintage Sails Race, a festival devoted to the queens of the sea, which attracts tourists and enthusiasts from all over the world.
Viale Matteotti, a winding corniche of Mediterranean beauty, gets to Oneglia through a setting of polychrome gardens and imposing Art Nouveau buildings (the charming memories of 19th century tourism), now the seats of public offices and institutions.
Past the Impero river, Oneglia presents visitors with the orthogonal geometry of its Piedmontese layout, enriched by piazze and porticoed street. From central piazza Dante head to the pedestrian quiet of Calata G. B. Cuneo, the glitter of the sea from afar anticipates the brilliancy of a multitude of pastel houses. Yachts and fishing boats gently float a few metres away from the fresh shade of portico, brasseries and wineries. Enjoy a gourmet break and have a slice of sardenaira, the local version of pizza celebrating one of Oneglia’s most famous sons, Andrea Doria (the protagonist of 16th century Genoese history). The promenade is enchanting, a pleasant walk eastwards between beautiful palazzo and ritzy stabilimenti balneari.